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Cowboy Hat Styles & Shapes: What to Know

To the casual hat wearer or those new to the world of western fashion, it may seem that a cowboy hat is a cowboy hat is a cowboy hat. Fundamentally, that's true; cowboy hats all have the same "bones," so to speak, including a crown, brim, interior sweatband, and usually, some type of decorative band.

However, there are several cowboy hat styles, not to mention cowboy hat shapes. They come in about as many shapes and sizes as cowboys themselves!

From the most quintessential shapes to one-of-a-kind looks guaranteed to turn heads, here are some of the best cowboy hat styles you should know.

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8 Beloved Cowboy Hat Shapes & Styles

With so many shapes and styles, there's a popular cowboy hat style to suit everyone and every situation. However, it can be tricky to choose the right one if you don't know their subtle differences, not to mention all the various style names.

Here’s some good news: no matter which one you end up with, it'll look great with your favorite Tecovas cowboy boots!

Cattleman

The most iconic and traditional cowboy hat styles, the admired Cattleman proves that understated, classic looks really are timeless. Cattleman hats are defined by three top creases—one right down the middle and one on either side, an ever-so-slightly curved brim, and a tall, narrow crown.

There's actually a reason that the Cattleman crease cowboy hat is noticeably taller. To distinguish themselves from rodeo cowboys, ranchers began wearing cowboy hats with a heightened crown in the late 1800s. The bigger crown turned out to be practical, allowing cowboys to pull the hat down low on their heads in inclement weather, and the design quickly became a go-to among cowboy hat shapes.

The Ranchman is our version of the classic Cattleman. This rabbit fur felt hat draws inspiration from traditions that date back centuries yet stands out among other cowboy hat shapes with its unique profile featuring a hybrid teardrop-shaped cattleman crease. Other subtle but impactful details include original Tecovas art in the satin-stitch lining, a genuine leather sweatband, and an arrowhead pin in the hatband.

A man and woman, both wearing cowboy hats and denim clothing, stand closely together with relaxed expressions. The man has long hair and a beard, and the woman has her hand on his shoulder.
A person wearing a dark hat and jacket is inspecting a brown leather saddle hanging on a wooden fence.

Brick

The Brick style of hat is essentially The Cattleman but with a squarer brim and crown. In true Brick types of cowboy hats, the crease typically forms a near-perfect rectangle and has a vintage Old West look. Like The Cattleman, Brick hats are popular in both felt and straw.

Because of its distinct (and very literal) "sharp" styling, Brick hats are many a cowboy's go-to for formal events.

Pinched Front

One of the most classic and recognizable cowboy hat styles, Pinched Front hats are defined by their teardrop-shaped crowns and wide, slightly curled traditional brims. It's also common to see the brim curved slightly downward at the front and back of Pinch Front crease hats.

Unique among other types of cowboy hats, the Pinched Front style is especially popular in straw. It's also a shape favored heavily by women.

Gus

Another cowboy hat that takes its styling cues from The Cattleman, the Gus style has a distinctive shape. Its crown is tall and narrow, generally about six inches. Gus hats traditionally feature three creases, but slope downward in the front, creating an angled profile. The Lonesome Dove TV show popularized this hat style in the 1980s, so it's sometimes called the "Lonesome Gus."

These types of cowboy hats are also referred to as "reach and grabs," for the two creases on both sides of the crown where cowboys often grab their hats.

Fun fact: cowboy hat etiquette dictates that you should handle your hat only from the crown.

Note that in some places, most notably Texas, the Gus is actually known as a Tom Mix hat. This leads us to our next cowboy hat shape...

Tom Mix

Tom Mix was a beloved silent actor in the 1920s and 1930s. He was infamous for wearing a distinct cowboy hat style with a rather tall crown and very pronounced, barely-upturned brim.

Today, the Tom Mix is also called several other names, including the Ten Gallon (or 10-Gallon) hat, the Montana Peak, and the very fitting Western Slope. Tom Mix hats feature three creases in the crown, but the back two are very small and the front one has a prominent pinch with a deeply angled slope.

Gambler

Often worn by—you guessed it—rowdy gamblers in old westerns, these cowboy hats have broad, flat brims and flat or nearly-flat crowns. Gambler hats are primarily available in felt and dark colors, but are actually excellent for hot climates, thanks to the shorter crown and wide brim.

Mexican cowboys called Charros made the Gambler cowboy hat famous when they wore them to Nevada ranches for seasonal work. That Nevada connection certainly explains how these hats came to be associated with gambling! Rhett Butler also wore a Gambler in Gone With the Wind.

Biggs

With a slightly similar look to the Cattleman, Biggs cowboy hats have a square brim and a crown that appears almost square or rectangle-shaped. This is due to the two unique, nearly straight creases on either side of the head. Biggs hats are often seen in straw, and their taller, more open crown lends itself well to hot weather.

Open Crown

Perhaps the most easily recognizable of all cowboy hat shapes, the Open Crown cowboy hat does not have a single crease or dimple in its crown. The crown is completely smooth, giving it a larger appearance. Unsurprisingly, these hats are also sometimes referred to as 10-Gallon hats.

Saddle Up in Style with Tecovas

No matter what your go-to cowboy hat shape may be, pair it with western-inspired boots and apparel from Tecovas. With our range of high-quality materials, intricate design details, and stunning colors, you’ll be walking taller in undeniable comfort and style. Shop today to get yours, or visit the Blog for more outfit and lifestyle inspiration.

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