Tecovas makes cowboy boots the old-fashioned way - using old-world, artisan construction techniques in León, Mexico.

Ever wonder how handcrafted cowboy boots are made? Tecovas, a cowboy boot brand founded in 2015, has a modern retail model – they only sell directly to customers online. But their bootmaking technique is decidedly not modern – consisting of old-world, 100% handmade construction techniques perfected in one of the oldest bootmaking factories in the world.

Read more about how they're made:

The Bootmaking Capital of the World

It all starts in León, Mexico – the aptly-named Bootmaking Capital of the World. Founded by shoemakers hundreds of years ago, the town is steeped in history and is home to one of the oldest and most respected bootmaking factories in the world. It was an obvious partner for Paul Hedrick, the founder of Tecovas, to select for his high -end, online-first brand.

“One of the first things I learned about the cowboy boot industry was that there is no better place on earth to make shoes or boots than León, Mexico. It’s the first place I visited when the idea for Tecovas was born!
Paul Hedrick, Founder & CEO of Tecovas

Supple, Custom-Tanned Leather

The leather is the most obvious indicator of quality in a cowboy boot – and Tecovas uses the highest-grade leathers available across their lineup. Supple to the touch for little-to-no break-in period and custom-tanned in classic colors, Tecovas’ leather is first die -cut into the proper shapes for the bootmaking process to begin.

Tecovas’ signature Bourbon Calf leather, ready for stitching

100% Stitched by Hand

Skilled hands and sewing machines are the only tools necessary to stitch together the leather components of a cowboy boot when it’s done the old-fashioned way. The first step in Tecovas’ bootmaking process is stitching four parts together: vamp, counter, and two shaft quarters.

A Tecovas artisan stitches around a hand -laid shaft cording pattern

The Last - the Heart and Soul of the Boot

Handcrafted boots and shoes are built around a last – a mold in the shape of the final shoe or boot form. Tecovas custom-designs all of their lasts in classic shapes and true to U.S. shoe sizes. In this next bootmaking step, the four-piece leather set is hand-formed to the last.

The Tecovas cowboy boot last

The Goodyear Welt - a 150 Year Old Construction Method

The Goodyear Welt – stitching a leather strip along the footbed before securing the outsole – is a classic shoe-making technique. It allows Tecovas boots to be resoled for years to come without having to rebuild the entire boot.

The hand-guided Goodyear Welting process in action

Lemonwood Pegs - an Age-Old Cowboy Boot Signature

Classic western boots have a ¾ welt construction, meaning the center of the outsole is not welted. Instead, it is secured to the boot by meticulously-positioned, hand-hammered lemonwood pegs – a difficult process with a beautiful result.

Hand-hammered pegs secure the midsole in classic western boots

Handmade Leather Details - Down to the Heels

Even the heels of Tecovas cowboy boots are made from 100% leather, stacked by hand and shaved to shape before being attached to the outsole.

Stacked leather heels with rubber caps are hand-shaved to shape

The Finished Product - Hand-Built Beauty

Stacked leather heels with rubber caps are hand-shaved to shape

The Cartwright in Bourbon Calf by Tecovas, ready for inspection

Looking to see the boots for yourself? Tecovas makes it easy to buy boots – with fast shipping, free returns & exchanges, and world-class customer service.